By Dr. Laurie Hess, Dipl ABVP (Avian Practice)
Certain reptiles and amphibians can be terrific pets, but some of them can be complicated to keep, and not all of them are appropriate for children.
If you’re allergic to feathers or fur, or if you are looking for a pet that is fascinating to watch and requires little to no time out of its enclosure, these incredible reptiles and amphibians might make an excellent choice for you. With proper adult supervision, older children can learn to care for these animals and develop an appreciation for nature’s diversity.
Here are the five best reptiles and amphibians for families with kids:
Bearded Dragon Lizards
As lizards go, these animals are relatively simple to care for and easy to handle. These yellow/brown to orange or red-colored lizards get their name from their ability to expand the skin over their throats when they are upset or stressed. They can grow a foot to two feet long, nose to tail tip, and live on average between seven and ten years.
These lizards should be housed in glass tanks heated with over-the-tank lights so that the temperature in the basking zone (an area set up as if the pet were basking in the sun) is 90 to 105 degrees Fahrenheit and in the cool zone is in the mid-70s. They should be provided with branches or logs on which to climb, as well as a full-spectrum light with a UV-B/UV-A bulb to enable them synthesize vitamin D3 in their skin so that they can absorb calcium from their food. To keep hydrated and allow them to shed their skin properly, they should be misted daily with water, which they absorb through their skin. They should also be provided with a shallow bowl of water into which they can climb if they choose.
Bearded dragons should be fed live crickets and mealworms, frozen and thawed pinkie or fuzzy mice (dusted with supplemental calcium powder at least twice a week), plus a variety of chopped vegetables including collard greens, kale, spinach, romaine lettuce, mustard greens, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, peppers, and shredded carrots. They should also be given a multi-vitamin supplement sprinkled on their food twice a month. If handled often, bearded dragons can be quite docile and very interactive.
These lizards get their name from their yellow skin that is initially covered with brown stripes that eventually fade to spots as they age. They grow up to about a foot long and live for between eight and ten years with proper care. These geckos live in glass tanks with rocks on which to climb and a shallow dish of water in which to soak. They should be given a moist hide box containing moss or vermiculite that is misted daily to provide humidity to facilitate normal shedding of skin. They should be provided with an over-the-tank heat bulb to maintain temperatures from 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the basking zone to the low 70s in the cool zone farthest from the bulb.
Despite their nocturnal behavior in the wild, leopard geckos living indoors also should be provided with a full-spectrum, UV-A/UV-B bulb to properly synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium.
Leopard geckos should be fed live crickets every day to every other day, along with occasional live mealworms, wax worms, or other insects that are gut-loaded (fed a vitamin-enriched diet) before they are offered. Insects also should be dusted with calcium powder before feeding to the gecko. Larger geckos can be fed frozen and thawed pinkie mice. Easy to handle and generally very gentle, these lizards can be great first reptiles for families.
These orange- to red-brown snakes make great pets for families because they are amenable to handling and can live into their twenties with proper care. They are large enough to not be too fragile, yet not too large to be intimidating. While they can grow between four and six feet long, they are typically easier to handle than many boas and pythons, as they do not develop as wide a girth as these other snakes.
These snakes should be housed alone in glass aquariums with escape-proof lids, at least one hide box (such as a hollow log or piece of PVC pipe) to make them feel secure, and tree branches for climbing. They should be provided with an over-the-tank heat bulb to provide a warm zone of 85 degrees Fahrenheit and a cool zone in the low 70s. Damp sphagnum moss or paper towel that is regularly misted and changed to prevent mold development should be provided to ensure adequate humidity for proper shedding.
Although snakes ingest calcium when they eat the bones of whole prey, they generally fare better when provided with a full spectrum UVB/UVA light a few hours a day to ensure they are experiencing day and night and seasonal cycles. Paper-based bedding, such as shredded paper or commercially manufactured compressed recycled paper pellets, are ideal rather than wood shavings or walnut shells, as paper is digestible if eaten, while ingested wood or walnut shells can lead to gastrointestinal obstruction. Sand should never be used as bedding as it, too, can lead to intestinal impaction if ingested.
Corn snakes should be fed freshly killed or frozen and thawed rodents. Live prey should never be offered, as they can bite the snake and can lead to fatal infection in your pet. Young snakes can be fed small mice, while adults may be fed larger mice or small rats. Baby corn snakes should be fed every five to seven days, while adults should be fed every seven to ten days. Water should be available in a shallow, untippable bowl big enough to soak in. Corn snakes are best handled two to three days after feeding, after they have started digesting their meal and not before they are hungry again, as hungry snakes can be cranky and more apt to bite. With gentle restraint, these snakes can become quite tame and readily respond to their owners touch.